Wardrobe Architect: worksheet #1 - making style more personal

I'll try to keep up with Colette's Wardrobe Architect workshop, best effort,  in how to create a personal style and wardrobe. The first task is to go through your history, philosophy, culture etc to see what has really shaped your style to begin with.

I'll start with describing my history by answering the following:

How has your personal history informed the way you dress? When did your tastes crystalize? Have they changed over the years, and why?

My younger days, up to the 20-somethings, was all about sports. I was a speed skater girl and my wardrobe outside the ice oval was all about being comfy. I really didn't care all that much. I guess strong colour has always been my thing. And wild prints.

When I started university l slowly started to feel I should probably have a style of my own. I've been off and on between individualistic bohemian clothes to smart stylish casual. I guess I still belong somewhere in the middle of those :-)

Another aspect is that I've always "suffered" from looking young. Maybe a time will come when I find this a true asset, but so far it has been a real downside. I need to look my age to feel comfortable at work (and not get patted on the head...) and in my business outfits I try to do just that - look my age. I'm getting better at it, for sure, but I would like to find a balance where I can wear the same clothes everywhere. I don't like to change clothes two times a day if I can help it. 

This dude, Thomas Gustafson, is what got me into speed skating 

by winning 2 olympic gold medals in 1988

/Alexandra
#WardrobeArchitect

Sew for a change: Point Chart update!!

We're getting closer to the challenge kickoff. Only 10 days left now!!! I'm itching to get started!

We are thrilled that so many have shown interest in doing this with us, that's really awesome!
However, we have gotten LOTS of questions on the points for different things and we had to realise the chart both was lacking info in various places and wasn't balanced properly. We feel that sewing/knitting your own should save points compared to buying RTW, and the previous chart only met that demand in some places.

We have now done a massive rework and are proud to present the brand new Point Chart!

You can download it from the Sew for a change page. There you'll find all the info you need.

We really hope it feels more complete this time! Now, there will always be certain items that will make you wonder, but use your better judgement. For example; where would you place a bikini? I would say that is equal to a bra + knickers in category C (synthetics) = 6 p. What about a new aerobics outfit? That would be the same as a short sleeved top + tights in category C = 13p. You get the idea.

How are you preparing for the challenge? Going nuts shopping to have a huge stash before the end of the month? No, you wouldn't! (?)
I myself have printed the point chart and the scorecard and taped it to the inside of my closet door to easily keep track of things. And, no I haven't shopped anything I wouldn't have bought anyway. Good girl (patting myself on the back).

/Alexandra

A japanese love affair

A good friend came and stayed this weekend and introduced me to the most amazing yarn! Really, there is nothing like it! The quality, the colors, the feeling! Ahhhh....

My friend has made a bunch of amazing scarves, shawls and ponchos from this yarn and I fell in love instantly. I had to try it for myself and have now made a pretty woollen crochet hat. I will also make matching wrist warmers and as soon as they're done I'll show it to you! In the meantime I give you a snapshot of the yarn if you want to drool with me:

This particular Noro yarn; Kirara, is a wool, cotton, silk and angora blend. Noro is made in Japan with great love and care for our environment (read more about Noro here). Have you tried it?

I am so happy I can handle wool these days!!! Not long ago I was so sensitive to wool I couldn't wear a garment with 5% wool for 2 minutes without freaking out. Since I stopped using products containing SLS (Sodium Laureth Sulfate and the likes) problem is gone! Me a happy billy goat!

/Alexandra

Completed: The Wardrobe Basic. Including tutorial for FBA on shoulder dart

The first garment of my spring SWAP is done; the "Wardrobe Basic" from Ottobre. Can I just say, what a quick, cute and usable pattern!! Or actually, not quick at all if you count more than 1,5 h of hand sewing to get invisible hems and facings. If you like topstitching it will indeed be very quick, but I love neat finishings and pretty insides of garments.

I think the pattern of the fabric turned out fun!

Inside trimmings. The bias tape has GOLD stripes!!!

Matching pattern on the sleeve too.

And the back. Nice fit, don't you think?

I LOVE pretty insides!

I love how it turned out. I did make some alterations, without making any muslin, but I just had a feeling it was going to turn out the way I wanted anyway. Luckily it did - phew! I am pretty certain I'm gonna use this pattern again. Imagine this as a summer jacket made from dark denim!! Want!

The fabric was a vintage scrap designed by Maud Fredin Fredholm. The pattern was quite intricate so it took me a while to decide how to put the pattern pieces so it wouldn't turn out too crazy. The leftovers will be enough for a couple beanies, an infinity scarf or some other accessory.

Sorry for not showing any live pictures, but I have a pajama-day with sick kids at home. Didn't feel like posing...


So, what alterations did I make?

#1 - FBA (Full bust adjustment)

I ALWAYS do an FBA these days. There is really no reason not to since it makes a world of difference to the fit. Don't be a lazy fart when it comes to FBA - it is always worth the effort, trust me!

This pattern already has a dart in the shoulder on the front, and I believe alterations like FBA should not have to change the design of the pattern. So, therefore, after having done the FBA you move the dart into the dart you already have on the shoulder. I thought I'd show you how it's done, but since I forgot to take pictures during the process and I don't have time to redo it, I'll give you a quick and dirty drawing tutorial instead :-)

Mark the regular FBA lines (blue) and slash the pattern. For more details on the basics go here. Spread the pattern your desired amount. Then it will look like this:

Tape in paper everywhere except in the new bust dart, which remains open. That is, within the blue dotted area:

Now, we don't want a bust dart because that alters the design of the garment, remember, so we need to move it! To do this we slash from the shoulder dart down to the point of the bust dart - but not all the way through! See red line:

Then we close the bust dart by pivoting the paper like shown by the arrow. Tape the dart closed and notice the shoulder dart wide opened. Continue drawing the shoulder dart legs until they meet (and make sure they are equal length) and there you have your new dart.

Tape in paper to fill the gap - voila! The green shape is the new pattern.

#2 - Reshaping the front panel

Since I knew I don't want to wear this cardigan closed I prefer the shape at the front to be more rounded. I simply shaved off a slice from the front pattern and did the same to the facing.

Hope this was helpful!

/Alexandra

Personal thoughts on Sew for a change

It's now 2 weeks left until our Sew for a change challenge kickoff! My head is spinning already (from excitement), what about you?

Our challenge seem to have put most people in two corners. From one corner I hear "This will be too easy! I never shop anything anyway (... I think)" and from the other corner the complete opposite "This is nuts and completely NOT feasible. Besides, I don't see the point, but go ahead and torture yourselves".  But where in this do I place myself today? Definitely leaning more towards the first corner, but realistically probably somewhere in the middle.

My problem is that when I get hooked on something, it tends to take over for a while. Like when I got obsessed about finding the perfect makeup a couple of years ago, or when I got into shoes (oh, the joy of pretty shoes!), or vintage porcelain, or my most recent hook - cloth diapers/real nappies for my baby!

Some of my past obsessions....

I still need to say I am more balanced these days and rarely shop unless I actually need something. But I will now try to guess where the challenge may get tougher on me:

1. Clothes for work. I will start working in March after about a year of maternity leave. Depending on what project I'll get (I'm a project manager), the dress code may be more formal than my wardrobe currently supports. This is a great incitement to loose that baby weight - to fit into the clothes I already have. Gotta get on with that running...
2. Underwear. Since nursing a baby called for special bras, both in terms of function and size, I now have a huge need for new bras. I may need to learn how to make them myself to save points. Also, since I hope to loose the baby weight, the need for new knickers will probably come and bite me too.
3. Stockings/nylons. I don't know if it's me or if quality of such items is just plain bad these days, but it's not unusual that I only get to wear them one single time before they rip. I will make this my special mission - to find some really good quality ones that will last a long time (greatful for any tips).

Now, how about I get this for a tattoo? ;-)

/Alexandra