Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Completed: Minoru Jacket from Sewaholic Patterns

I have just finished the best thing I've ever sewn! Not due to my skills or anything, but totally due to the awesome pattern and brilliant design. A pattern that really delivers!

First, let me show you the finished product and then let me talk you through my alterations and learnings :) Sorry about the poor picture quality. They were actually taken in the dark, by my kid, and I didn't feel like waiting and making it all pretty. Just so EAGER TO TELL THE WORLD you know.

I decided to make the pattern without the hood. The only reason was that I thought I'd get by with the supplies I already had if I did. It turned out I didn't and still had to go buy a zipper but at that stage I was already too far along in the process. I actually don't like the jacket with the hood out, but I love the detail with the zipper on the collar and that rushed decision I will be mourning long and hard probably. Anyway.



A back view showing the great shape of the jacket.


The mandatory peek-over-the-top-picture

In the above picture all the gathers are showing pretty well. I did an FBA (the same way as I did for the wardrobe basic here) which caused A LOT of gathers around the neck. If I'd do it again I would sew a shoulder dart to eliminate the excess and then gather according to pattern. The dart would be pretty concealed in the gathers anyway. That's how I did it on the lining and that turned out great.

Another mistake I made was that I forgot to lengthen the front placket the same amount as the FBA, which meant that it ended up a good 1,5'' too short. The jacket feels like a good length still so I don't mind, but something to keep in mind for those of you who do large FBAs.

My next alteration was to add an inside zipper facing. Because, let's face it (haha) - without a facing the wind will get an autobahn to my always cold body and make me hate the jacket. I am actually surprised that this pattern doesn't include one since it is so incredibly well designed in every other area. Well, it was an easy thing to freestyle.


Upper end of zipper facing


Lower end of zipper facing (duh)

Interior pocket with hook and loop closure
 I added interior pockets as the pattern suggests, but I highly doubt I'll ever use them. I do think they give a more finished look though, so they get to stay. Maybe one would have been sufficient.

inside the jacket


For the inside of the jacket I chose a cotton with a cute print that I already had in stash and interlined it with cotton flannel for some extra warmth, except for the sleeves which I lined with a slinky (perhaps silk) fabric that I've been given and no interlining. The sleeves are narrow in design so I didn't want to risk making it feel too tight. I also lined the inside of the collar with a layer of organic lambswool that I originally bought to make cloth diaper covers, but I had a piece left and it now makes it incredibly soft around my neck.


For the outside I chose a thin green wool blend fabric, much like the thickness you would find in a regular suit. I was worried it would be too thin and flimsy, but with the lining and interlining it is just the perfect fall jacket. I have tested it today and it withstands plenty of wind and keeps me toasty.


My last alteration was to add pockets on the outside. Or in the side seams to be accurate. This is my biggest regret. I soooooooo wish I had made patch pockets with flaps instead since that would have taken the design through the roof, but I got lazy again and made the quickest pockets I knew.
My best advice to anyone making this jacket - spend time on pockets. You won't regret it!


side seam pocket.
 So now I'd like to say I'm gonna sew another one, because I truly enjoyed it and I love the result, but in all honesty it is not very likely. I would never buy two of the same jacket in a store regardless of the deepest love so...

Summary: awesome jacket! awesome pattern! I looooooove it. Yes. I think you should sew it too if you haven't already.

/Alexandra

10 comments:

  1. What an absolutely gorgeous jacket! Thanks for the tip about the zip guard. Congratulations!

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  2. what a great minoru!! i love the color and how the lining matches :) i agree that patch pockets would have been totally awesome, but side seams pockets are much better for tucking in your hands. the zip guard is also genius! it all looks so profesionnal-looking!

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    1. Thanks, yes you've got a point there with tucking in hands, patch pockets won't really do the job there. Ideally you should probably have both :-)

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  3. Great jacket! I like your zip guard idea and perhaps with your excellent way in explaining FBAs I might even dare to make this jacket one day. You have chosen a great fabric as well.

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    1. Thanks, fear not - fellow FBA needing friend! Just do it!!! And then show me pictures!

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  4. Woow! Såå snyggt! Jag blev verkligen mållös när jag såg jackan! Fantastiskt! En dag i framtiden ska jag beställa något från dig! ;) Stor kram!

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    1. Tack snälla! Jag har haft plan på att sy till dig i evigheter. NÅN gång ska jag väl få tummen ur... Kramar

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  5. Hej! Hittade precis till din blogg via Vi sytokiga (eller Vuxna?) och den faller mig verkligen i smaken! Man blir glad när man hittar såna bloggar där man liksom tycker att allt är fint. :)

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    1. Åh, vad smickrad jag blir!! Tusen tack!!

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